Strasbourg to Brussels (long posting, having been unconnected a bit)
We wound our way up mountain roads and into the heart of the Alps at Interlaken, on the Swiss "National Day," celebrated with an extravagant display of fireworks, and general (for the Swiss) rowdiness. And then it began to rain. And continued to rain unabated, which rather dampened our wishes to go up to the peaks and hike about in the meadows. Sigh. For a couple of days were completely socked in, and as appealing as up-close-and-personal meterological field work may be to some, we decided to bail from rainy (and expensive) Switzerland, and true to the weather maps, the moment we crossed back into France at Basel, it broke warm and sunny.
But it wasn't just the weather. We both felt a remarkable sensation upon leaving Switzerland, a palpable sigh of relief, a sense that some mental tightness or suffocation, a general wariness, one's whole being on guard and on edge, could suddenly relax. What is it about the Swiss? Earlier we'd been speculating on what small changes in human character would be needed to make the world a better place, for people to consider more the general welfare than their individual aggrandizement (altruism being, after all a patter that can be cultivated, what would it take to be the normal default?) And with a shudder we realized that here is Swiss society, well-ordered, clean environment, people with their well-defined places in society, keeping out of the business of others --- is this an image of that "better place?" If so, then let us be grateful for our chaos and strife. Sigh^2.
So after an overnight in Colmar (which in spite of glowing reports, didn't make much of an impression, being an uncomfortable blend of medieval and modern), we drove the next day to Strasbourg, where we were met in front of the glorious cathedral by Trileigh's second-cousin Julian and his German friend Wazlaw (Vaclav?). Strasbourg is wonderful, like Amsterdam on the Rhine, a beautiful, ancient central town, surrounded by and laced with flowing canals, largely restricted to foot and tram traffic, where a truly multicultural mix of French and German is generally spoken. The town, being humane rather than automotive, has its own modern energy that gives it a feel of excitement and movement, a lot of bustle and street life, a liveliness reminiscent of the kind of spaces for people advocated by Patricia & Jayson (i-sustain.com) and their friend Jan Gehl from Copenhagen, which is maybe our next stop.
Julian (14 years old) was in Strasbourg with his mother Ursula (Trileigh's cousin Jack's wife), her friend Gudrun, and Gudrun's sons Vaclav and Martin. All of us went for a boat ride along the canals, checking out the bird life (coots, mallards, grebes, swans) as well as the bridges and churches, not to mention the presence of the EU alternate headquarters.
The magnificent Strasbourg cathedral is made entirely of a lovely sandstone whose colors seem to ripple in the changing light like a melting strawberry-and-cream popsicle.
And inside is an absolutely delightful mechanical "horloge" that's actually also a miniature Biblical theater.
It consists of a variety of celestial clocks that record the sunrise and sunset positions, stellar and planetary configurations, and oh yes, time; it also tells you the saint-du-jour for every day of the year. But the big performance is at noon. At the base of the horloge, one cherub rings a bell while another inverts an hourglass (day-glass?). A chariot carries away the symbol of the previous day of the week (Wednesday/Venus, in our case) as another chariot appears with the current day's symbol.
A couple of levels up, an old man representing the dying previous day moves past a skeleton Death to retire inside the clockworks as the next day's new infant emerges from the other side. (A mature man appears midday each day.) At the topmost level -- this is still all happening during the clock's noon performance -- the twelve apostles form a procession in front of a Jesus figure. At the 4th, 8th, and 12th apostle, a cock flaps its wings and then crows as a reminder of Peter's denials of Jesus. As each apostle passes by Jesus, the apostle turns and bows to him; Jesus then blesses him with his hand as the apostle turns to go. It is all quite a procedure to witness!
Somehow it never quite worked out for Rob to play the Strasbourg chess guy who spent all day every day out on the street playing any comer, but the guy was always engaged with someone, trouncing them in different creative ways (saw him sacrifice his queen on a couple occasions and thereafter eschew opportunities to take white's queen in turn, playing instead for position. Remarkable!), but did rent a bike for an afternoon and tore all around town, reminiscent of the old days in Vienna.
The two of us and Julian made the drive from Strasbourg to Brussels, which gave us a glimpse into the mind of a next-generation leader. Julian is remarkable, fully bicultural and bilingual as well as thoughtful and intelligent, and gives us hope for a better future. The seminar topic du jour was how his generation is going to save the world, and Julian took the long view -- long as in millions of years. His view is that there are natural species successions as ecosystems are changed by their inhabitants, and that human activity is opening the way for new species creation as it closes the path on others. We had a long discussion about the ethics of terraforming Mars in this context; when do humans have default rights to change ecosystems toward specific goals (or accidentally, for that matter), and when should we assume that, alternatively, such rights are by default limited and only expandable upon careful consideration and in absence of equally ethical alternatives?
So here we are back in Brussels for a few days to catch our breath before heading into the North Country. Our friend Jane has been so generous to us, not only loaning us her car for a few weeks but also opening her home here to us to stay as long as we want while she's traveling to Russia and the Black Sea. Jane's flat is full of treasures from all over the world, and is located down the block from an immense park/natural area that extends all the way to Waterloo (yes, the original) 30 km away. Last night we went walking near the Grand'Place, the central medieval marketplace and Brussels' most famous attraction, and had dinner on a lively little side street. We chose the place because (a) it was the only one that didn't aggressively solicit our business via a highly extroverted streetside waiter/marketeer, and (b) a talented clarinetist played sweet jazz while we ate. The nonstop parade of international visitors made their way along the shining wet cobblestones under brightly colored awnings, as the extroverted waiters tried in language after language to get them to stop for soupe de poissons or frites.
Back at Jane's, Trileigh was reading a chapter from _Bobos in Paradise_ by David Brooks: an amusing analysis of the "Bourgeous Bohemians" (BoBo's) that we've all become as us 60's hippies become Establishment members but simultaneously try to retain our rebel status. In his chapter on "Business Life," Brooks mentions Jane Jacobs' classic 1961 book _The Death and Life of Great American Cities_. And thence, having just returned from a wonderful city evening, we got into the following seminar: cities as incarnated models of human meaning. So here goes: Some thinkers have rejected religious systems as sources of meaning for modern-day humans on the basis that these systems are outmoded and rely on stories that science has demonstrated to be untrue in a literal sense. They -- I'm thinking of Brian Swimme and Thomas Berry here at the moment, but there have been many others -- propose that the scientific stories of origin and evolution can now provide a satisfying substitute for religious systems, since they provide both a grand(est)-scale creation story that acknowledges that humans are part of something much larger, and also a direction (evolution) to which humans can contribute positively. Those of us who are scientists, or in any case the two of us, find awe and mystery permeating the scientific enterprise. But many (if not most) humans seem to find the scientific story unsatisfying as a context for meaning in their lives; it seems impersonal and mechanistic.
These kind of characterizations, intriguingly, also are those used by Jane Jacobs against the new urban "improvement" projects of the 50's and early 60's ("High Modernist" urban planning) that razed neighborhoods and built extensive standardized apartment buildings that were considered "rational" and "orderly." She contrasted the impersonal and machine-like housing models with the quirky, unique, small-scale, unpredictable neighborhoods in which she lived, which added together compose a living, lively, energetic city, like where we had dinner last night. If we for the moment take cities as lived expressions of what humans in a group find meaningful as a context for living their lives, is there anything we can learn from modern urban systems about ways to adapt meaningful systems for contemporary humans, or ways not to?
For instance, we noted that in several of the cities we've visited to date, our favorite places were lively side streets that were on the close fringes (within a couple of blocks) of a major urban landmark and gathering place; for instance, at Montmartre/Paris and the Grand'Place/Brussels. It somehow matters, we think, that a big public place is very close by -- those side streets probably wouldn't have had their liveliness and sense of anticipated discovery if they'd been off by themselves in the country somewhere. So what would that pattern (viz. C. Alexander) suggest about meaning-contexts in a philosophical sense? Obviously, other people may love other aspects of cities than we do -- but the High Modernist projects are pretty universally reviled these days, so probably there are at least some generalities that could be tentatively made about positive and negative aspects of urban design in this light. We'd love any thoughts on this topic that our friends would have -- for instance, what are your favorite places in the cities you're familiar with? Why? What meaning do these places have for you?
We could probably go on about this for quite a while, but we'll stop here for the moment. This blog entry has gotten long enough since we haven't been able to connect well for a while. Off to Scandinavia after yet another national holiday monday. Oh Belgium!
posted by robduisberg @ 3:37 AM
32 Comments:
Trileigh and Rob,
I continue to vicariously travel through Europe and some of my favorite cities with your travel log. I do love Strasbourg as you do, and coming from a southwestern
French, it is uncommon as the feel of cities in the eastern part of France can be so alien to southern spirits. But, there is somthing magical about Strasbourg, for me the
mis of cultures (not completely French, Alsacian, and the German influence) but also the energy of the modern city (with its European outlook on the world) mixed with the medieval parts of town. Since you spoke a lot of the architecture and style of a city in your last message, one of the things I love in France and miss in US cities is the mix of the fast-pace, modern, forward advancing parts fo the cities superimposed on the historical parts, the traditions, the cultural "norm". The blend of the exciting, but uncertain future with the nostalgy and stability? of the past which is not only found in the customs, and way of life but in the architecture. For me, this is very present in Europe and I experience it best in France since I know the country better.
I also agree with you about the energy and attractiveness of side streets around urban landmarks in many French cities. Many of the landmarks despite the emotion they can trigger (solemnity in the Sacre-Coeur, sanctity of churcehs etc...) are spoiled by tourism and its string of stores, lines of people, cameras everywhere, intruding eyes that are just passing thropugh with no deep emotional attachment to the area... as if the monument of landmark had lost its soul among the crowds and is simply and stoically waiting for time to pass. While the side streets inhabited by working folks, active members of communities are genuine, living buildings and/or streets... and to me much more emotional and closer to one's feelings of being part of, or belonging to the urban landscape.
I just came back from Finland and Estonia and would love to share my how I experienced countries from which I knew very little and could not speak nor understand a word of the language. It an extraordinary experience!
But, this will have to wait until you get back... And we can share stories around a glass of wine.
I am preparing for my next adventure on the Pacific Ocean in September, and will have to check your travel log later in September as intense preparation in on-going.
Amitiés à tous les deux, Véronique
PS: Great picture of both of you in Strasbourg, traveling fits you well!
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Dispatch of Yangtse Evening Post (reporter Zhang Hao[Small gain]) 1000 breathe out 10 thousand call out only then come out, jiangsu football is confused people 1000 breathe out 10 thousand the Danalahe that call out[Small gain]Wanted to come back eventually. According to reporter understanding, danalahe will be in the Romanian strong pull by hand of the sports season on Shun Tian Nanjing is returned at the beginning of May, with team assemble.
Go up sports season, jiangsu Shun day[Small gain]Be in in super-[Small gain]League matches limelight strong, and Danalahe also becomes the foreign aids forward in the team most of scene one exceed a player in the name. 2011 sports season, danalahe is hit into 13 balls for Shun Tian, 2012 sports season his reentry 23 balls. Two sports season, this Romania archer advanced 36 balls for Shun Tiangong. In in exceed the history to go up, the boots of league matches gold with top [url=http://www.epiphanymgmt.com/nikeshoesforkids.aspx]cheap nike shoes for kids[/url] yield of odd sports season should be Li Jinyu[Small gain]In the 26 balls that hit 2006, it is the 23 balls of the sports season on Danalahe next. And the player with maximum number of the goal in boots of foreign aids gold exceeding in amounting to Nalahe to also be become. Divide this beyond, sports season amounts to Nalahe to return force to press champion Guangzhou constant on big[Small gain]The foreign aids aperture of the team gets stuck[Small gain], flourish ascends sports season MVP.
Nevertheless, because be in twice in as big as Qingdao and constant game,get hurt, danalahe was missed on sports season is last two rounds of league matches, german operation cure is headed for to hurt after sports season ends. Nowadays, danalahe not only can take a ball to train, body state also maintains very well. By May, his regain Nanjing, what can cause Jiangsu fan certainly is enthusiastic chase after hold in both hands.
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