Finse, Norway (long also)
A genial voice in a gentle Norwegian accent called out to us from the rock above: "Is this a philosophical expedition you are taking?" A bit bemused and befuddled, we started to answer, "Absolutely, how did you know?", when he added "Not a bicycle expedition?" We were walking down a dirt road beside the lake Finsevatte with our packs, heading out on a bit of a trek over the tundra, but these chaps were bicycle touring, a big deal here, and his impression was we were walking out of some philosophical principle. He also added, "Well yes it is better, if you drink too much, to be walking." Little did this friendly fellow know, but he came up with the label for this whole enterprise.
In the spirit of the old elephant joke about "No soap, radio," these two philosophers walk into a bar. One says "Gimme a Prolegomenon on the rocks," and the other says, "I'll have the Thing-in-Itself, straight up, no chaser." So the bartender answers, "No philosophy, bicycle!"
In the middle of the southern part of Norway, about two thirds the way from Oslo to Bergen, is a plateau and a clump of mountains, not all that high, only about 1800 meters (in the 5000' range) which is nonetheless high enough to hold the massive Hardanger glacier.
It seemed quite odd how we got here. Trains and planes were ridiculously expensive, so almost on a lark we jumped on an all night (and all the next day - 22 hr total) bus (who ever said Europe was small?), which turned out to include a long ferry crossing through Denmark, which was lovely -- literally hundreds upon hundreds of wind generators along the Baltic and North Sea coasts ( see Patricia and Jayson's work on these sorts of things), elegant and exciting to the eye. Upon arriving in Oslo late the next day, there was apparently a conference and therefore no accommodation to be had, so we continued right on to a night train toward Bergen, getting off at this little whistle stop named Finse (the highest train station in Norway at 1222 m) at 4:15 in the morning, still without a place to stay. But these "huts" that the Norsk have are, it turns out, very civilized hostels indeed, and the welcome sign on the entry to the Finsehytta invites folks who arrive on the night train to make themselves comfortable in the ample lobby. So we had ourselves a sleep of 2 hr before the reception opened at 8 am, spent much of the day on a short hike (6 km) up to a glacier and back, and enjoyed an astoundingly delicious dinner at the hostel that night. What could be finer?
Well, what was truly finer was the hiking the next three days up over the granite outcroppings 22 km past the edge of the glacier, among myriad icy lakes to the next hut called Rembesdalsseter, perched above a lake just below a tongue of the glacier with a torrential cascade out the bottom, and the lake giving onto a chasm of 800 m cliffs down to the Hardanger fjord. Oh my! Along the way there were torrential gorges with filamentary suspension bridges (which it turns out they actually dismantle at the end of every season, so as to not be swept away, so they are deliberately rickety).
The geology here is stupendous. Trileigh spent much of Friday's 10-hour hike oohing and aahing over the metamorphic rocks, which ranged from swirling gneisses to shiny black phyllites, trying to figure out how the whole picture fit together. It wasn't until we reached Rembesdalsseter hut that one of our new Norwegian acquaintances translated the term "Skyvedekke" on the map as "shoved layer" (= "thrust sheet" for you geologists out there) that she finally realized that what we'd been seeing all along was a massive fault that probably was formed during a continental collision on the order of a billion or two years ago, all the more exciting to see the mineralogy of her dissertation work in trondhjemites in situ (get it; Trondheim).
Anyway, our 22-km hike turned out to feel a LOT longer than that, and took about 9 hours for us compared to the 7 that the hardy Norwegians estimated. The final stretch into Rembesdalsseter involves a 1200-foot descent, first down a smooth arcing granite face and then down a seemingly-vertical rockfall, and we schlepped into the hut with aching muscles and joints...but minds full of the beauty and glorious vistas we'd seen over hundreds of square miles. Norwegian hiking huts are a real pleasure, beautifully constructed and stocked with canned and dried food that you buy on an honor system (make a list of what you took and leave the money in an envelope) and cook yourself with the pots and gas stove provided. Our hut had a "hyttevakt" (literally, "hut-guard"), a 20ish young man who as a team with his girlfriend showed us the ropes. He won me (T.) completely over when, as we expressed concern about the near-vertical 1200' ascent back *out* of the valley, he offered to carry our "luggage" up there for us because he didn't have much else to do! Almost everyone else staying at the hut was Norwegian, and as friendly and jovial as we've found most to be, staying up late and laughing uproariously over musically-cadenced but indecipherable-to-us jokes.
Given the difficulty of the 20-km hike in, we decided to split our hike back to Finse into two parts. After making the steep but surprisingly easy ascent back out of the valley, we hiked a couple more hours and set up camp in mid-afternoon at the base of towering Luranoten. The streams in Norwegian high country are apparently pure and giardia-free, so clean and delicious water was never scarce -- what a joy! The next morning we set out predawn for the last part of our hike (although that was made easier by the fact that the mountain was to our east, so sunrise occurred about 10:45) and had another glorious blue-sky mountain day, with clouds pulling in just as we reached Finse for Sunday evening dinner and welcome hot showers.
On Monday morning we took a train north 1/2 hour to Myrdal, where we switched to a private railroad for the stunning hourlong ride down to the village of Flåm, at the head of Sognefjord. The railroad winds quite literally through the mountains and has the steepest grade (1:18) in Europe over its 20 km length. Arriving in Flåm, again without a place to stay, we once again were recipients of remarkable luck and have ended up with our own little cottage, inexpensive, along a river at the base of a sheer, waterfall-laden rock wall.
And now it's begun to rain. Very glad not to be on a glacier in this. We're finally posting this from Bergen, having taken the train through spectacular country in heavy rain. Bergen is a very cute little town, even in the rain, but the place is overrun with head bangers this weekend as it happens to be the biggest heavy metal festival in Europe this weekend. Yeow! Anyhow, tomorrow we sail on a big old boat to Newcastle, and boy oh boy we will feel sorrry to leave this sweet country and the very sweet people -- almost without exception! -- that we have encountered here. Hmm... There ought to be some joke about what's the difference between a Swiss and a Norwegian standing out in the rain... Send your answers to the (anonymous!) comments column!
posted by robduisberg @ 1:45 AM
32 Comments:
What the hell is a prolegememnon?
Please pass the soap.
Love,
G
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